When I was little and my mom was harvesting rhubarb she’d cut off all of the leaves and I’d take them and use them as doll-sized umbrellas, or make a little house for mice or fairies using the wide leaves for the roof. My mom’s rhubarb patch is over twenty years old and produces both mammoth stalks and prodigious yield. We’d happily eat rhubarb multiple times a week as most of the time it was fed to us in cobbler or pie form. In fact now that I think about it, rhubarb is one of the first things I can remember being allowed to dice up myself.
Rhubarb is a prolific Alaskan garden plant that can be grown in most northern climates. It needs plenty of rain and temperatures that consistently fall below 40°F in the winter. My mom’s secret to an impressive patch is to bury a couple of large starfish or sunstars (hopefully that you found already dead) about a foot and a half under the dirt beside the plants. This will provide fertilization for years to come. To start your own patch you will need root divisions taken from the crown of somebody else’s plant. Put them in the ground in early spring just after the ground becomes dig-able again. Once you have planted your starts, patience will be the name of the game. Don’t pick it for at least the first year (but waiting two-three years is better)!
After waiting so long harvesting can be a rewarding experience. Pull your chosen stalk away from the others and using a sharp knife cut at the base of the stalk. The ones you harvest should be between twelve and eighteen inches long and about an inch in diameter. If your stalks are thin you may not have enough nutrients in the soil. There isn’t much difference in taste between a green stalks and a ruby ones, but most people prefer red stalks for the bright pink color they add to baked goods. Remember to only take a few stalks at a time from each plant so that it will continue to grow.
It is extremely important when harvesting to know that the leaves are poisonous and should never be consumed! Among other things the leaves contain oxalic acid which is a nephrotoxin which can cause vomiting, breathing trouble, kidney failure, or a coma. One source even says to flush the area with water if it comes in contact with bare skin (it’s a wonder I survived childhood at all)!
One of my current obsessions are fruit shrubs. I have been using these for making salad dressings (which are delicious and putting them into cocktails! You can even use them simply as drinking vinegar and make refreshing drinks by adding 2 parts shrub to about 8 parts sparkling water. My favorite flavor so far is rhubarb shrub, although they can be made with just about any fruit. I have found that there are two main ways to make rhubarb shrub: the fast way and the slow way.
These rockfish tacos are perfect for a festive dinner at home with friends and family.
Over the past thirty four years of living in Southeast Alaska I’ve caught more rockfish then I care to remember. Most of the time it was done in the pouring rain, but every now and then the sun was shining. Many different types of rockfish are found in the waters around Elfin Cove and it’s versatility lends itself to many different dishes. It has always been a weekly staple at our dinner table, and finding new ways to prepare it is always a fun challenge.
Here is a recipe that was hard for me to write down since so much of my cooking is off the cuff. I’ve done my best to approximate the measurements, but I’ve always found that the best dishes come from tasting and testing as you go along.
Steven Hemenway holding a yelloweye rockfish.
Deborah Hemenway has cooked for hundreds of people at her home in Elfin Cove, Alaska. She and her husband moved to Alaska in 1981 where they raised their family. When she’s not feeding people she also enjoys perfecting the art of bread-making.
Whip up these salmon cakes made with fresh or frozen raw salmon-not from a can!
Every year we journey to Kenai to dipnet for Red Salmon. Since our household limit is 35 reds we limit out pretty quickly and are usually on our way back to Anchorage within the same day. The journey doesn’t end there.
The next step is to process the fish.
Every season it seems like I have to relearn how to filet salmon. Needless to say, the first filet of the year is a bit sad looking. To make the best of a fishy situation, I like to use this sacrificial learning filet in ways where it can be admired for its flavor rather than the later crafted barbecue ready filets.
Our dogs love it when we make salmon for dinner. Nothing is wasted with these guys around!
I‘ve been watching the rhubarb carefully the past few weeks to check stalk length and leaf size.
It’s time.
Let the first harvest of the season begin! I picked the largest stalks that were either drooping towards the ground or were starting to block light to the newest incoming stalks.
Rhubarb makes a delightful salsa/slaw introduced to me through my friend Steve Jordan. His recipe includes a root, a hoot and a shoot. In this case the root is a turnip, the hoot are jalapeno peppers and the shoot is the rhubarb. It’s great on many things not the least of which is chips. Superb on grilled chicken or pork or wherever you need some zip to balance out the bland!
Give this Alaskan staple a kick with Sambal Chili Garlic paste
Every spring I start to take inventory of our freezer space, seeking out the forgotten and buried. The same items seem to be hoarded every winter because they have been saved for a “special” occasion or to serve to someone visiting from the lower 48.
This year’s stash included plenty of smoked salmon (including a few whole fillets I will need to make an occasion for) and precious frozen berries.
Below is a recipe that uses up those sometimes less than fresh looking food saver bags of smoked salmon. Wipe the frost off and give it a try before your next book club meeting.
We are both born and raised in Alaska, land of the midnight sun and fishing at 2am. We love to find new ways to use fresh ingredients or put a modern spin on an old Alaskan classic. We hope you will enjoy tasting Alaska.